Saturday, July 17, 2010

FORGIARIN: ITALY

+RUN AWAY NOW+
Emilio Bulfon Forgiarin

Italia: Friuli Venezia-Giulia
Forgiarin 100% (red)
2007
$19.99
80 pts
Let me say this first: Emilio Bulfon's efforts to resuscitate the traditional grapes--some hundreds of years old--of his native Friuli are noble, and as someone who prefers the typical Old World flavor profile (drier, earthier, changeable, with less polish) to the big, bold candy-fruitiness the New World, I respect and even appreciate Mr. Bulfon's work. However, his 2007 Forgiarin (a grape named for a small town in the west of Friuli), just didn't do it for me. Had never tasted this grape before--had never even heard of it, which I love--and was hopeful of a new and exciting discovery, having received this bottle as a gift from a wonderful family at school. The color of the Forgiarin is dark-cherry red. I wasn't able to pick up much on the nose, at first, except for a hint of petroleum, of all things. After a few seconds and a few more twirls in the glass, I did start to get some cherries. Overall, I would describe the bouqet as kind of tight, close, not revealing much. As for taste, certainly pucker-dry (which I don't mind), but it was so disjointed I struggled to put any name to the fruit. It seemed to me as if the mouth feel and flavor and weight were somehow all separated from one another in my mouth. After waiting a while, the wine did open up--and perhaps even pull itself together--a bit, but the fruit, which I've read since is supposed to capture blueberries...well, not for me, it didn't. I don't recommend the Bulfon Forgiarin, with or without food, I'm afraid. It's just doesn't offer enough coherence and flavor; I can live very nicely with a single pleasing flavor, or a complex balance of complimentary flavors, but this wine offers neither. The label is beautiful, though, designed by Bulfon himself, capturing a Medieval fresco of the Last Supper. But in the end, the producer's noble effort to make great wine in the 21st Century from old, traditional local grapes (and his beautiful label)...these are the best aspects of this wine. Maybe I'll try again in a few years--I'm pulling for him.

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