Protocolo Blanco (by Dominio de Eguren)Espana: Castilla-la Mancha
70% Airen, 30% Macabeo (blend)
2009
$6.95
84
For a discount wine ringing in at about seven bucks a bottle, the Protocolo Spanish white--while no great shakes--is a serviceable wine, offering nice weight, a smooth mouth feel, and a soundbite preview of what more legit
white wines from Espana have to offer: a nice balance between fruit and floral flavors and a much-appreciated contrast with the usual tasteless Pinot Grigio, oaked-to-death Chard or one-dimensional Sauvignon Blanc that dominate this price point. The fruit is citrus with some hints of pear, while the not unpleasant floral bitterness that follows clearly distinguishes this wine from its more popular Kool-Aid shelf-mates. The length? Not much staying power here. I give the Protocolo white 84 points. It's not a wine to seek out, but on a last place team--the Pittsburgh Pirates, for instance--the Protocolo could be an All-Star, maybe getting an inning in the field late in the game. And when you're paying league minimum, what more can you ask?
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