Sunday, February 27, 2011

MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO: ITALY

+MUST TRY+
Terre Palladiane Zonin Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (by Casa Vinicola Zonin)

Italia: Abruzzi
92% Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, 8% Sangiovese (red)
2008
$9.99
88 pts
Picked up this bottle at the airport in München in July of 2010, with a few Euros left to spend before our departure for home. I'm a fan of Zonin's Prosecco, so I thought I'd try the firm's Montepulciano d'Abruzzo--and I'm sure enjoying this wine, especially at the ten dollar price point. It's by no means complex, or rich, or of great depth. And it's also rather stingy, aromatically, with a hint of cherry and perhaps a minuscule amount of licorice on the nose. But in the mouth, it's smooth, with soft tannins, offering bright cherries and--following a hollow mid-palette--a pleasant and lingering black licorice flavor. The length is decent enough, too (especially for ten bucks). The color is a deep, dark ruby red, rather attractive. Zonin is a family operation in its seventh generation, and while founded and headquartered in the Veneto, where the family's roots lie, the firm today holds more Italian land for viticulture than any other private entity, with vineyards throughout the country...and even in the American state of Virginia! A straightforward, easy drinking little wine for just under $10.00 US. Not big enough, deep enough, nor interesting enough to get to 90 points--and there's the weak nose and hollow middle, too--but to me, this is a great weeknight-at-home-wine, and worth every cent.

Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (by Azienda Agricolo Masciarelli)

Italia: Abruzzi (San Martino)
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (red)
2006
$11.99
86 pts
From the region in which my maternal grandmother's family originated (Abruzzi), this varietal, at its best, can offer an affordable and wonderful everyday Italian red to enjoy with dinner...but the 2006 Masciarelli (actually produced by Il Casale in Italy, but imported and distributed by the Massachussets-based Masciarelli company) is just so-so. The color is ruby red, and not unappealing, while the nose is decent, with cherry and raspberry aromas. The taste is primarily straightforward dark cherry, with an average finish and no "Wow!" to speak of. Some have suggested hints of tobacco, but I just don't get that here...not that complex. In addition, this is an extremely dry wine, so much so that one puckers after a few tastes--and I, generally, prefer dry reds. In a pinch, this wine beats the heck out of a plastic, candy-sweet red of some type, or even a really cheap, poorly-made Chianti, as a pairing with pizza, pasta with red sauce, or red meat. But there are many other wines at this price level (and below) that are far superior. The Masciarelli is not something I feel compelled to have on hand or seek out, again. But I can envision circumstances where it might be better than the alternative.

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